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Your First Bespoke Business Suit

There is a clear difference between a business man wearing off-the-rack, and his counterpart dressed in a custom suit.

The elements inherent in a quality custom garment generate a look of confidence – an expression of your personal style, a unique look that sets you apart.

It’s common to feel confused when ordering your first bespoke business suit – there are so many different cloths and styles to choose from. It’s hard to know where to start!

Thankfully, we have been tailoring bespoke business suits since 1987, so we have a lot of experience in this matter.

Our biggest piece of advice to anyone choosing their first business suit is to keep it relatively conservative and not too ‘trendy’. After all, you are likely to be wearing this suit a lot and anything with a classic style is going to be much more wearable long-term. You should focus on looking smart and professional.

In this article, we will talk you through your style options and make suggestions on what would work best for your business suit, based on our own experiences as bespoke tailors.


1. Fabric

Most of the time, wool is the best option for a business suit. It looks smart, it’s comfortable to wear and it’s durable enough to withstand the abuse of the daily commute. Wool suiting fabrics are ‘worsted’ which means that the fabric is smooth with a great lustre – this means that the cloth will drape beautifully when worn.

2. Weight

Suit cloth comes in all kinds of weights from lightweight 7oz to heavy 16oz. This is handy when you are purchasing a suit for a specific occasion or climate, but in your case, you should opt for a mid-weight cloth that will serve you throughout the year.

A mid-weight cloth tends to fall around the 11-12oz weight and will be warm enough to wear in the Winter without leaving you too hot in the Summer.

3. Pattern

We love the pattern, but we don’t advise that you choose a pinstripe or a check cloth for your first business suit. These are great styles to add to your wardrobe once you own a few suits, however, for your first suit, keep it simple.

You can’t go wrong with a solid twill cloth for example

Navy single-breasted

Navy is the most universal and versatile colour of suit.

It is smart, professional, and can be worn with both a tie, white shirt and black shoes for a meeting or evening event, and a roll neck and suede shoes for something more casual.

The suit should be single breasted, have a notch lapel, two or three buttons on the front, and nothing else gimmicky like coloured buttonholes or flashy lining.


Grey single-breasted

A grey suit is almost as versatile as navy. From a business point of view, there is little difference. Navy’s biggest advantage is that ability to look smarter at a particularly formal event.

Grey should certainly be your second choice, though, and mid-grey is a little more interesting than charcoal. Mid-grey is also kinder to some skin colours than navy, and is easier to pair with bright colours shirts.

Black single-breasted

The next solid colour to consider is

probably black as its not only for business but for any events, meetings, parties, etc

I think all man should own beautiful black suit

Black suit is powerful suit and should be

styled as wide Peak lapel and strong shoulder which make your shoulder looks broad and your waist / hips looks smaller

Most importantly should worn with only black shoes

Experiment with subtle pattern or texture

You’ve now set the foundations for a solid working wardrobe. The next place to experiment, if you want to, is with a different material or some bolder pattern.

Patterned suits are a great way to stretch your wardrobe and add the right depth to your weekly work rotations. While patterns may seem less formal than solid suits, there are plenty of work appropriate patterns that make beautiful work suits.

The easiest is to vary the material, and make it more specific to a time of year. Flannel, for example, is particularly popular with readers who are new to tailoring. It hits the sweet spot between unusual and subtle Or stay with the worsted, but go for a herring bone, stripe or check.


A great first step to start implementing subtle patterns into your rotation is to opt for a herringbone suit. The reason we are showing a pattern this subtle first is the fact that this fabric is still seen as a solid from a far. However, the zig zag texture creates a unique depth to the garment when seen up close, making a seamless transition from solid to pattern. Many men feel intimidated by jumping straight into bolder patterns so this herringbone style is a great way to start.

as this pattern can be worn by a Suit or even just as a Blazer


Classic & Conservative

The next patterned fabric to consider is a stripe. This pattern is one of the most classic, conservative looks for the office and is sometimes seen as a ubiquitous business suit in corporate environments. The cloth shown is a grey base with white stripe. Many fabric mills offer an array of different colour stripes, however the white stripe will always be seen as a classic. The sharp lines, along with the slimming silhouette of a well-fitted garment make any man in a striped suit look taller, leaner and more

powerful. This is why we often show these suits as "power looks" for the office.


Bold & Dynamic

The next pattern we are showing is also a check, however, this style is the most recognized check pattern available in suiting: the charcoal glen check. this pattern is more dynamic with both a base check in the cloth.

For business charcoal is a great colour

it looks very elegant, especially with a little of that textural pattern going on charcoal with light blue

4. Style

As with everything we have discussed so far, simple is best. With that in mind, you should choose a single-breasted jacket with two buttons. This is the dominant style in most workplaces and is universally flattering.

Whilst one button, three button or even double-breasted jackets might be tempting, save these for later and order a style that will be the most versatile.

Single Breasted three piece suit -

Three piece suit is a worthwhile investment for your wardrobe. After all, nothing projects polish and style quite like a three piece suit, it is a fantastic basic suit to have in your work rotation, due to its dark nature, it can be paired with lighter colour shirt

Any guy can slip into a two-piece suit. But adding that third component, the vest somehow makes the perfect finish to an elegant and stylish look, wear the suit one day of the week with the vest and another day without vest for added versatility

classic vest style is v neck with 5 or 6 buttons

Double breatsed suit -

The double-breasted suit has always been known as a more formal style

Since the double breasted suit has been invented, you would always find many Captains of Industry and Royalty wearing a double breasted suit.

the Prince of Wales fabric (aka Glen Plaid) has been making a strong comeback in the past couple of years. Before then, it had become rare sight to spot a gentleman wearing such an elegant fabric

Of course, the return of this formerly obsolete motif goes hand in hand with the return of the double-breasted suit. Indeed, what better fabric for a beautiful double-breasted suit than a classic,

Double breasted striped suit is the perfect business suit, For some men chalk-stripes can hold a great deal of fear. The thickness of the stripe makes a bold statement about the man beneath it. About who he is, and who he wants to be. Some, myself included, prefer to go under the radar.

For others the chalk-stripe is a statement of intent. Its boldness means business, shows confidence and resonates masculinity.

We hope you like this article and if you like any suit above please note all those suits are available in our online store

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