Updated: May 27, 2021
A properly tailored suit is one of those things I didn’t know I needed (or wanted) until
I got one and it’s not just the fact that the fit is perfect — I’m a pretty normal shape and I’ve never really struggled to buy a suit off the peg — it’s also the ability to choose every little detail from the lining to the style of buttonholes, to the precise amount of padding in the shoulders, and many things I had no idea I cared about.
GETTING IT RIGHT
The actual experience is very different, a relaxed affair, that involves a lot of friendly advice. It’s worth bearing in mind that your suit can last decades, so it’s worth doing some homework and spending time discussing your options with your tailor.
Of course, one of the most important things about having a tailored suit is making sure other people know it’s a tailored suit and there are many Bespoke Details
Options in Custom made Suit
LAPELS - tale sign of the tailored suit is the lapel — “Lapel” is not a word that’s in common usage these days. Some men would be hard-pressed to explain where the lapel on their suit jacket is.
To keep things clear from the beginning, we’re talking about the two flaps of fabric below the collar of a coat or jacket folded back on themselves
most commonly used are three types of lapels
Notched lapel: mostly use in single breasted Jacket , appropriate for most business attire and formal occasions like attending a wedding.
Peaked lapel: use in double breasted and single breasted, when you want something more formal and bold. It’s a flashier look and shows a little more bravado. Wear when you’re running the meeting at work or getting married yourself!
Shawl collar: not really recommended for business as its mostly for parties, especially in Tuxedo/Smoking
2. SHOULDERS - The shoulders of a suit are one of its foremost parts and every tailor on the planet cuts his differently. The shoulder line, in particular, conveys intent and is one of the most defining elements of a jacket. If the suit makes the man, then the shoulder makes the suit.
Three common types of shoulder pattern such as
A. THE NEAPOLITAN SHOULDER
The Neapolitan shoulder style is practically identical to the Italian shoulder save for one, additional, distinctive feature: the puckering or slight shirring—to use the sartorial term—of the sleeve cap’s fabric.
It is also its mark of craftsmanship: this kind of stitching can only be accomplished by a steady, seasoned hand.
As with the Italian shoulder styles, the Neapolitan construction, too,
displays elegance but in a relaxed manner and without heaviness or formality. The shirring, being unique to this shoulder style, may be seen as an acquired aesthetic taste.
B. NATURAL SHOULDERS
This shoulder style has no roping and, in contrast to the Continental shoulder which is straight and the English shoulder which is either straight or slightly concave, is convex, following the natural, downward slope of the shoulder. While this style theoretically follows the natural line of the body’s shoulder, to call it a “natural” shoulder is a bit of a misnomer, as this style frequently features a thick shoulder pad that helps hold the shape of the jacket. Absent the thick pad, this shoulder would be very similar to the Italian shoulder styles.
C.THE PAGODA SHOULDERS
The Pagoda shoulder style is a highly stylized construction in which the shoulder line has a concave contour, sloping downwards from the collar and rises up again towards the arm—creating a shape vaguely similar to the roof of a pagoda. The pagoda shoulder creates this curve through a specially made shoulder pad and manipulation of the jackets chest canvasing.
3. BUTTONHOLES -
So, is there a big difference between a hand-stitched lapel (bespoke) versus a machine-stitched one (custom)
A machine-stitched lapel won’t be as “perfect,” it’s true. But it will still look fantastic, especially with a proper press. Below, a example of a machine-stitched lapel (note the neat rows of stitching)
Regarding hand-stitched versus machine-stitched buttonholes, there is simply no functional difference between the two. Stitching buttonholes by hand takes much longer than doing them by machine. Stitching eight buttonholes by hand takes around four hours, whereas doing the same amount of buttonholes by machine takes about twenty minutes. The only visible difference is demonstrated in picture
Above left, we have machine-stitched buttonholes, and above right we have hand-stitched ones. You can see that the machine-stitched buttonholes are neater and rather perfect, whereas the hand-stitched ones are just a bit messier, particularly on the underside.
Hand-stitching is simply not economical for buttonholes, but for a man who appreciates a (nearly) 100% handmade garment, it’s necessary.
4. VENT - A suit vent is a vertical slit that extends upward from the bottom hem on the backside of a suit jacket or blazer.
The 3 Types Of Suit Vents
A . SINGLE VENT
A single jacket vent sits directly in the center back of the jacket hem. Since gaining popularity with Ivy League types in the mid-20th century, the single jacket vent is often considered the ‘American style’ and is very common among the American workplace, particularly among baby boomers and older gents. It can also be found on more casual blazers given its simpler aesthetic. It is more readily available off-the-rack, as a jacket with a single vent is faster, easier and less expensive for mass market manufacturers to make.
B. DOUBLE VENT / SIDE VENT
The side vents features twin openings that sit on each side of the jacket’s back hem.
Suits with double jacket vents are commonly associated with British tailoring lineage, giving the wearer a more sophisticated and European flair in their style. Double-vented jackets naturally require more time and more cost to produce. As such, they tend to be found more frequently on made-to-measure or bespoke suits as well as occasionally, on premium ready-to-wear suit brands.
The ventless jacket is a handsome and classic choice for black tie and a bow tie.
The vent-free jacket features an unbroken silhouette that is only ever appropriate with formalwear. Specifically, on the backs of a tuxedo jacket. Brush up on the differences between a tuxedo vs. suit jacket to learn more about why this is the case.
Suit pockets may not serve much of a practical purpose, but that doesn’t mean they can be overlooked. Suit pockets are but one of the myriads of seemingly small details that come together to tell a cohesive story about the suit and the man wearing it.
In custom made suits there are plenty of options in terms of pockets, mostly used are
A. Flap Pockets
A flap pocket is exactly what it sounds like – a pocket with a rectangular flap covering the opening, fashioned from the same fabric as the rest of the jacket.
B. Ticket pocket
the ticket pocket’s backstory is rooted during the golden age of train travel
The ticket pocket is typically located just above the standard right pocket
Functionally, the ticket pocket is of little use today, but it shows appreciation for tailoring tradition and makes a fashion statement for the guy who likes a classic touch on his suit.
C. Slant pockets
Slanted pockets, also known as hacking pockets, have a rich history rooted in English tailoring and equestrian pursuits. This is because slanted pockets are easier to access while on horseback and more effective at preventing items from falling out since the rider is leaning forward, thus making the slanted pocket opening actually parallel to the ground.
D. Patch Pockets
Patch pockets are made from separate pieces of the suit fabric stitched directly onto the outside front of the suit jacket or blazer. This suit pocket type is the earliest and most primitive take on pocket construction.
Because patch pockets sit externally on the garment’s surface and are fully visible, a patch pocket suit is casual by nature. Patch pockets are appropriate when you’re going for a relaxed and effortless vibe, but should be avoided when formality is required. You’re most likely to spot patch pockets on a sport coat (blazer), or an informal suit
6. Custom Lining -
It represents fine tailoring, high quality, and the perfect fit and style. If you have yet to own a bespoke suit of your very own, however, chances are you have never chosen the lining for your own suit. Even though you will probably be the only one seeing your own lining, you shouldn’t settle for any old suit liner and give up the chance to choose something special that you love.
A suit lining adds weight and structure to the jacket. It also makes your jacket warmer, so that you find it more comfortable to wear during the colder months. A well-lined jacket will sit smoothly upon the body, reducing any wrinkles. It is much easier to put on, too! A lining hides the inner construction of the jacket. Wearing an unlined jacket can pull at your shirt and ruin your look.
Pleats or No Pleates
you have options of choosing flat fronts with no pleats or pleated trousers
Flat fronts shows more modern and use mostly in slim fit trousers
with pleated its more classic and use mostly in comfort fit trousers
2. Turn ups or normal
3. WAIST BAND
A. Side Tab- As trousers are of your measurement you don´t need to wear a belt but if you change size there is a adjuster also there is a belt loops
B. Metal Tabs- Metal tab give really nice bespoke detail and generally doesn´t come with belt loops as it doesn´t look nice
C. Standard Trouser with belt loops